Mellowing out in Malaysia
01.01.2010 - 01.01.2010 35 °C
We're on a northern island of peninsular Malaysia right now, Langkawi. Arriving here around Christmas made finding accomodations tricky. We headed to Cenang Beach which the guidebook said was the best place for budget accomodations. Our first night we ended up in a dorm, which was fine, except for the snore monster that was about twenty feet away from me and managed to make my night on of the worst I can remember. Nelly was lucky enough to be far enough away and close to a fan that seemed to drown out his ear shattering roars.
The second night we were in a private room, but it had no sink.
The real problem with Cenang, besides being full of tourists, is the open sewer grates every ten feet along the sidewalk. The stench is overpowering and inescapable, which has made some of the restaurant owners and shopkeeps resort to trying to cover the grates with mats and plastic sheets, etc. but with little success.
The beach itself was kind of a disappointment after coming from some incredible islands, Koh Kradan, Thailand most notably, so we decided to head back towards the main town.
After spending one night in a "Westernised" hotel (50$/night), and two nights in a local hotel (25$/night) we found a perfect isolated beach bungalow for a measly 15$/night. We've booked 3 nights there and spent New Year's in quiet isolation, passing out around 9pm after a few glasses of wine.
We're enjoying the multitude of wildlife here. Eagles are a common sight, as are macaque monkeys. We also spotted a family of dusky leaf monkeys, much more docile and pleasant than the macaques, and had to brake for a 4 foot monitor lizard while motoring on the scooter we've rented. We also saw a type of squirrel that was about twice the size of any I've seen, about a foot and a half long body, dark fur on top, with a creamy brown belly and a 2 foot long straight tail, also dark.
We've spent more time here than we would have because we are trying to find a sailboat that will take us on as crew so we can sail south down the coast. We have potential passage on a 43 footer heading to Singapore, so we're keeping our fingers crossed.